By 1862, the two sides had sorted themselves into blue and gray, and uniforms, but a number of state militias continued to use extravagant uniforms as a recruiting ploy—attracting volunteers by offering them fancy uniforms with which to impress admirers. Although they could not officially join the troops, approximately 400 women donned military uniforms, passed themselves off as Union or Confederate soldiers, and fought in the war. Some women, perhaps those who wanted to work for the war effort but did not want to wear male apparel, became spies, and female fashions — from parasols and crinolines to corsets and metal buttons — proved highly conducive for spying. One Federal agent complained, "A girl could hide a fair-sized arsenal under her hoop skirt." At the conclusion of the war, most women continued to obtain their garments from dressmakers or make their own clothing; factory-made dresses and clothing had negative associations until the beginning of the 20th century.
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